Clothing Care Chic

Dirty DKNY duds? Smudge ruining a pair of Pradas? Don't dash off to the mall for replacements -- give these cleaning tips for the well-heeled Bay Area wardrobe a spin instead Tara Aronson, Special to The Chronicle

What good is a pair of pink Prada linen mules after a Fillmore Street bus splashes them with gutter grunge? A cashmere sweater after a SoMa waiter spills a glass of red wine on it? A leather jacket that's languished in the basement and is now mottled with mildew?

They're as good as new if you know the tricks of the fashion-care trade.

After all, one of the most important aspects of fashion is caring for all those precious garments after you get them home. Today's trend toward more relaxed workplaces and lifestyles has led to more fabrics and blends actually designed to be cared for at home.

Yet this comfy trend begets a tough dilemma that demands sorting out: How does one care for today's fabrics and blends without ruining the whole bunch?

There's Lycra interwoven with nylon, cotton or acrylic. Rayon-cotton combinations. Cotton-poly-elastane blends. Spandex mingled with nylon. Polyester pumped up with rayon. And just plain hemp. (Some find the look intoxicating, apparently.)

The new international symbols printed on clothing labels only seem to further sully matters. Do you know what a triangle means? A circle? Three black dots? (Now you do: bleach, dry-clean and hot water.)

Considering the average load of laundry is valued at about $500 and that an average family sends eight to 10 loads of laundry for a spin in the washing machine each week, the answer is as important for your wallet as it is for your wardrobe.

While doing the wash will probably never be more fashionable than, say, an evening at 42 Degrees or Aqua, a few minutes of clothing and accessory care can have even a closet K-mart shopper looking like a million bucks.

Here are a few tips and tidbits to keep you in the cool clothing care loop this summer:

BASIC BLENDS

Here's one fashion rule you won't want to break:

• With any fabric blend, tailor your cleaning to the most delicate component of the garment. If either fiber or the trim or binding require handwashing, dry cleaning or low temperature washing and drying, this will determine the cleaning care.
  -- When in doubt, wash or dry clean according to the primary fiber in the blend.

SEASONAL STORAGE

• Hang in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight: Lycra, nylon, polyester, rayon, spandex, acetate blends and silk.
• Dry thoroughly: Cotton is sensitive to mildew and acid. Then store in a cool dry place out of direct sunlight.
• Lay flat in cedar chest or with cedar chips or mothballs: cashmere and wool
• Hang in old dry cleaning bags: Hemp and linen. It prevents wrinkling in storage.

FINE AND FUNKY FABRICS

• Cashmere with a red wine spill can be revived with a spin in your washer's delicate cycle -- or washed by hand -- in cold water. Don't wring cashmere -- you'll damage the fibers. Reshape and lay flat to dry away from direct heat or sunlight. To remove excess water after washing, gently roll in a towel.
• Hemp is a natural fabric whose popularity has grown over the past few years. On the bright side: It washes well because it is stronger wet than dry. Machine wash in warm or cool water, permanent press or casual cycle. It dries quickly -- hanging dry is sufficient. Dry cleaning is not recommended.
• Pashmina. Don't be afraid to wash this silk and cashmere blend. It spent 30 to 60 minutes in water just below the boiling point followed by two washes during the dying process that made it so lustrous-looking. Wash in warm water with a gentle, natural shampoo such as Aveda. Lay flat to dry. Machine drying can damage fibers.
• Beaded blue jeans. Turn inside out and wash in cool water, handwash cycle. Dry flat or on a dryer rack -- not in the dryer. -- Treat mildew stains on leather garments by blotting a small amount of antiseptic mouthwash on the affected area.

SHOES AND BAGS

• Vinyl or patent leather can be revived with a spritz of Pledge furniture polish directly on the handbag or shoes. Or, spray the furniture cleaner onto a lint-free cloth. Buff away residue.
• Linen mules or handbags may be sponged-clean with warm water and mild soap, such as Dove, dissolved in warm water. Leave heavy soils to a handbag or shoe repair shop or specialty dry cleaner to prevent discoloration.
• On leather, gently blot liquid stains with a clean cloth or wipe with a clean damp cloth.

FASHION DO'S

• Linen washes well because it is stronger wet than dry. A 60 degrees Celsius wash is most effective -- it smoothes the surface of the flax fibers allowing stains to be released easily. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's care instructions, however, as these take into account other elements in the garment's make-up such as linings, trimmings and special finishes.
• Machine-washing is the preferred manner for cleaning Lycra. If the other fibers in the garment are machine washable, this is the recommended method for cleaning. Thorough washing and rinsing bring out the best in Lycra.
• Your wimpy (lightweight) clothes should be dried first -- away from heavier fabrics. This will help prevent damage and shrinking. Lightweight, delicate fabrics such as lingerie are sensitive to heat and should be dried while the machine is cool. Average-weight garments like pants and dress shirts should be dried next followed by heavyweights like towels and jeans which can handle the hot drum.
• Linen should always be ironed damp, first on the wrong side to eliminate creases and then on the right side to enhance the fabric's natural sheen.

FASHION DON'TS

• Leather pants and jackets should never be covered or tucked into plastic bags: It can cause excess drying. Instead, hang leather apparel on wide wooden, plastic or padded hangers to help maintain shape. Cover with a breathable cloth (a cotton sheet or towel works well) and keep away from damp areas, such as the cellar, and from prolonged exposure to sunlight.
• Don't pack the washing machine to capacity when washing linen -- the highly absorbent fibre can absorb twice its weight in water before it drips. It therefore washes better when the washing machine is not packed to capacity and it can move about freely, dislodging stains.
• Don't dry towels with corduroy pants -- unless you like linted clothes. Separate lint-shedders, such as fuzzy sweatshirts, chenille robes, flannels and towels, from lint-keepers, such as knits, corduroys and permanent-press and synthetic fabrics.
• Don't get in the habit of taking your cotton garments to the dry cleaner. The chemical process used there may distort the color of cotton garments.
• Don't assume you can't wash it: Labels that say 'Dry Clean' instead of 'Dry Clean Only' may be hand-washable.